Faux wood beams in the Kitchen

Hi there everyone!

You may recall a few weeks ago I talked about a home improvement idea in the kitchen, and even shared some pretty examples of kitchens with fauxwood beams.

I am NOW so excited to show you our diy Faux wood beams in the Kitchen project.

If you have a room in your house that you’d like to add a little character to it…maybe make it look a little beefier. Adding some wood beams just like these is a good way to do it. Now, you can buy real wood beams OR you can use the faux wood. They’re much lighter — much less expensive.

Just the right finishing touch in our Rustic Country Kitchen.

I would like to take credit for the diy part, however, I owe it all to my husband on this one.

I did hand him a tool or two but that was about it.

The faux beams are pretty light, in fact I was surprised how light they were when I picked one up.

Amazing how much they look like real wood, with the carvings, and variations of color as well. Which I love the color we chose. Rustic, burnt brownish with a slight red undertone.

Description: 4-sided – Walnut Timber fauxwood Beams

This is where my husband comes in now…

Take it away Mike!

SUPPLIES NEEDED:

Orbital jig saw , file , electric drill , 2″ by 6″ wood plank, 1 & ½ black wood screws , 4 toggle bolts , sharpie , ½″ wood drill bit , angle finder . tape measure , level , painters tape , two ladders, a helper

Step one – Determine where beams are to be placed and then measure distance between area. Also, using a measuring tape determine your desired spacing of the beams and place a vertically oriented strip of tape over the area of placement.

Step two – If needed , use angle finder to determine the angle of the cut to the beam that is required. If you are positioning beam on a vertical wall this step is not needed. If placing on a cathedral ceiling use the angle finder to find the angle then use the following equation to determine the beam cut . Whatever your angle is minus ninety degrees equals final number. For example, my angle was 130 degrees (130 degrees – 90 degrees = 40 degrees) 40 degrees will be the final cut to the beams

Step three – Measure the distance needed on your beams, remember if angled your measurement will represent the bottom of the beam so that will be where the beam is widest. use the angle finder to stencil on the beam what is to be cut.

Step four – Cut beams to dimension required using jigsaw. Tip – If using the four sided beams, the ends are comprised of approx. six inches of solid foam and then 1 & ½ ‘ foam inserts then hollow and file.

Step five – After hollowing beam , hold beam with assistance to area which it will be ultimately placed. After leveling , make mark on bottom on both sides of beams onto the painter tape strips placed earlier.

Step six – Cut wood sections that will be used to anchor beams. I made 2″ by 3 & ½″ segments. I , also, tapered the two edges of the segments that would be facing the beam to ease later placement. Then, find the center of the segment and drill a ½′ hole through.

Step seven – Using marks on the painters tape, determine where you need to place your anchors then drill ½ inch hole. My measurement was 8 & ½ inches up from the mark , it is however open to interpretation. I would recommend a slightly higher placement as you have account for the anchor digging into the bottom of the beam.

Step eight – Fasten anchors to ceiling using toggle bolts.

Step nine – With help slide beams over anchors. Using wood screws attach the beam to anchor. Then, slide ladder to other side and attach beam to anchor while helper is holding in position.

In conclusion , We are very happy with the quality and final outcome of the project. If your space does not require an angled cut , it will certainly make your life easier. With that said , if you take your time and due diligence you too will be very proud of your new beams.

Thank you Mike:)

This post is sponsored by FauxWoodbeams.com.